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Moldmaking
And Casting
A Guide To Moldmaking And Casting - Part I
Materials:
Once
you have started your sci-fi scratchbuilding you will always look
for more effective ways to produce or re-produce parts and details.
Molding and casting is one way to build better and faster models.
Imagine
that you have worked for several hours to make one particular detail
and that this exact part is repeatedly used ten times on the model.
Scratching ten identical parts will be difficult, time consuming
and boring. With
molding and casting this will be fun, fast and educational. This
method will produce exact copies of your prototype, and as many
as you need.
The first
thing you need to do is to buy the right materials. You will need
two different types:
- RTV
silicone for the mold
- Resin
casting material
The
molds must be made from a special kind of industrial silicone called
RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanizing). These silicones are very expensive!
If your local hobby retailer don't have it, try looking in the yellow
pages under silicones. Be sure to specify what kind of casting material
you will use because there are many available. These are basically:
- Polyurethane
- yellow color (recommended)
- Polyester
- yellow color
- Epoxy
- clear, white or gray color
These
materials are based on two or more chemical components and come
in many different qualities. You'll need a resin that has a pot-life
(the working time from you mix the components until the resin starts
to thicken) that is approximately 5 to 10 minutes. This is the time
you will need to mix and pour the resin. If the mold is large or
has a lot of "hard to fill" details you must consider
a longer pot-life. The longer the pot-life is, the longer the curing
time will be (the time it takes to cure into solid resin). When
resins cure they develop a lot of heat because of the chemical reaction
in the material. This is normal, but remember this; the resin will
cure faster if the room is warm and slower in a cold room.
Resins
also have different consistencies. Some are thick (good for massive
molds without many details), while some are thin (good for smaller
molds with a lot of details).
Both
urethanes and epoxies can be pre-colored with a special araldite
color. This will not affect the quality of the product if mixed
in the right amounts. I prefer to mix some white and black into
the resin. This will make the cast parts gray and it will be easier
to spot faults like bubbles and so on.
So,
this is important to remember when buying resins:
- Pot-life
- Consistency
- Curing
time
Warning!
I
don't want to scare you, but it would be irresponsible of me not
to mention the health hazards involved when working with these materials.
Please
note that all these materials and their gasses are harmful to swallow
or breathe. They can also cause serious allergic reactions. Epoxies
can be lethal to those that are allergic and getting hardener in
your eyes will probably make you go blind. Use vinyl gloves, eye
protection and proper ventilation!
Please
look at the article on how I made the TIE-Bomber
for a few reference pictures on this subject. Other articles will
soon cover the actual process of molding and casting.
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