After having a four year break doing nature and wildlife photography, I finally decided to get back into scratchbuilding Star Wars-models again. Just to see if I still had the feel for it I decided to build a new and better version of the ANH Escape Pod, a fast and cheap project that would hopefully respawn my energy and heartfelt enthusiasm for the hobby.

The Escape Pod is a classic – possibly the ugliest and dirtiest ship of the entire trilogy. When ILM built theirs in 1976 it took them 5 days. The main shape was made from a pair of disposeable paint buckets and detailed with modelkit parts from tanks, ships and the Apollo rocket.

Basic Construction:
I used the same drawing I made for my first pod since the proportions were right. The main body-cones of the pod were made from polystyrene. The body was built in 5 separate sections, one for each conical shape. I simply cut 2 circles from 2 mm styrene for every section. I then made crossing ribs between the circles to get the right distance and stability. I then wrapped 0,5 mm styrene sheet around the skeletal structure to form the first layer of the hull.

Detailing:
Detailing a scratchbuild like this is best done in several rounds. You start with scribing the panel lines and adding the raised panels, then the main components and sections that will have more detail applied later. With the completed sections assembled I started detailing the “equatorial separation-line” ,the depression along the middle section with Evergreen styrene rods. To get the same distance between the rods I used a 1,5 mm piece of styrene as a spacer, a slow and meticulous process that really pays off when it comes to accuracy.

The bottom of the model where the thrusters are mounted were re-done a couple of times. I cut out a circular piece in the center and hollowed out the space behind it to accept the thruster-assembly plate. I took the liberty to put in some panel-lines to deepen the detailing.

The prototypes for the rocket- thrusters were turned from thick PVC-rods in a Toyo ML-210 minilathe. Additional components to the thrusters were made from styrene. I then made silicon molds from the prototypes and cast as many copies as needed from polyurethane resin.

The hull plating and the main hatch were made from another layer of 0.5mm styrene sheet and then laminated onto the models skin.

At this point the whole ship and quite some detailing was scratchbuilt from styrene.

The next layer of details were mainly a mix of kitbashed parts and Evergreen profiles.

My goal was to integrate every part into the model more than what was done on the original ILM model.

I also spent a lot of time sanding and adjusting everything to avoid cracks and visible seams between the parts and the rest of the model.

After adding the resin-cast breaking thrusters to the front of the ship I coated everything, except the thruster assembly-section with Tamiya surface primer.

The final shape of the Escape pod now started to appear on the workbench.

A test-fitting of the main thrusters was an inspiring moment.

Now, the only section of the model left to be finished was the thruster assembly.

Looking at the reference material this area appear to be littered with parts and fuellines.

There is a pretty clear structure though and the pattern repeats itself.

Two of the main components were scratchbuilt, molded and cast while the rest was scavenged from joyfully mangled battleships and tanks.

For the fuellines/hoses I sacrificed the cord for my Mp3 headset, it just had the right thickness.

The sockets for the thrusters and a center mounting point were turned from PVC on the lathe.

The three course correction thrusters on the sides were then added and the thruster assembly could be primed.

The main thrusters were also primed and mounted in their sockets.

The main mounting point on the model is just aft of the separation line.

As a mounting base I cast a Rebel Insignia from polyurethane, similar to the one I used for my first Escape Pod.

I used a brass rod as a mounting pylon.

The model could now be seen in its final form, all primed and ready to be painted.

I then applied the primary colour. The next step was to mask out different sections and hull plates to be painted in different shades.

This process was repeated numerous times and I airbrushed some soot, rust and burnmarks for every section (Images 21 and 22).

As a final touch I did more soot and ruststripes al over the ship. The whole back of the model was airbrushed in a yellowish / rusty tone.

The most exciting part of the painting is washing and drybrushing to make the details more visible. First I mixed a thin wash from turpentine and artistic oil colours like black and burnt umber. The wash was then applied to the model with a soft brush, flowing into the deepest panel-lines and details. The wash also tone the paint down to a more subtle and realistic look. I repeated the process several times, with heavier washes and more colour where I thouht it necessary. Last I painted detailed rust and grime with unthinned oil colours like burned umber, burned sienna and oker. The applied washes and oils now had to dry for a few days before the next step, which is drybrushing.

I drybrushed the model using a stiff brush whith the fibers trimmed very short. I dipped the brush in some unthinned white oil colour, them wiped it as clean as possible on a piece of absorbing pulp cardboard. I then brushed it over the raised details and panels making them slightly ligther. With the washes in the deep detail, the primary colour in the middle and the drybrushing on the raised areas you get a nice depth to the model. Be careful and sober abut it though, it is easily overdone!